As a professional chef, I rely heavily on the recipes my family has passed down through the generations. But let’s look further back: I think that when we eat wild foods, we relive deeply satisfying ancestral memories. The morel is more than just a wild food; it is among the most delectable of edibles. For me, good eating provides plenty of motivation to fill my basket with wild morels. I’ve used this family recipe, which is of Italian origin, many times.
¼cupgolden raisinsplumped in hot water and chopped
¼cuppanko breadcrumbs
2tbspParmesan cheesegrated
2tbspsweet onionspeeled and grated
2tbsppine nutstoasted and chopped (see Recipe Note)
1tbspfresh sage leavesminced
2 - 3largefresh sage leaves
8 - 12very smallfresh sage leaves
1tbspfresh flat-leafed parsleychopped
2tspgarlicfinely chopped
1tspfresh thymeminced
¼tspwild fennel pollenoptional
20medium-sizedmorelswashed, any Morchella species except M. verpas
2tbspvegetable oil
1tbsprendered bacon fat
4tbspsalted butter
salt and freshly ground black pepperto taste
2tbspbalsamic vinegar
Instructions
Combine the pork, raisins, breadcrumbs, cheese, onions, pine nuts, minced sage, parsley, garlic, thyme, and fennel pollen, if using, in a medium mixing bowl. Mix and set aside.
Fill a pastry bag fitted with a small regular tip with the pork filling. Pipe the filling into the morels, place on a baking tray and refrigerate for up to 3 hours. Alternatively, roll the pork mixture into meatballs a little smaller than your morels and stuff the caps. You may have to slit open the stems to do this.
Preheat the oven to 400°F.
Heat the vegetable oil and bacon fat in a large cast-iron skillet over medium-low heat. Add the stuffed morels and brown them for 4 minutes or so, then add the large sage leaves and continue cooking for another 2 to 4 minutes.
Place the skillet into the hot oven and cook the morels for 8 to 10 minutes until the pork filling has lost its pink hue.
Remove the skillet from the oven and place it back on the burner. Add the butter and small sage leaves and heat over medium heat for a few minutes, until the butter is browned.
Season the morels with salt and pepper to taste, and drizzle with the balsamic vinegar.
Notes
To toast pine nuts, place the nuts in a small, heavy skillet over medium-high heat. Shaking the pan frequently, toast the nuts until they begin to take on a golden colour. Remove from the heat promptly.